Let the Blade Do the Work

Many people hold a knife like it is a hammer and overuse a single part of the blade. When that part dulls, they tighten their grip, add a thumb or index finger on top, and try to create more force from the wrist. It works for a while, but it is hard on your hands and hard on the edge.

A small shift can change the whole experience. If you move from a hammer grip into a pinch grip, the blade naturally turns toward a better cutting angle for your body. Your elbow and shoulder can start doing the work along with the length of the blade instead of just your wrist and that one inch of edge.

In practice, this looks like:

• Pinching the blade lightly in front of the handle.
• Letting the knife travel forward and back, not just straight down.
• Using more of the blade length instead of hammering one spot.

The more the blade shape is allowed to move and slide, the less you have to push. This is why there are so many different blade types. Less force means less abuse at the edge and slower dulling.

Use Boards That Support the Edge

Boards matter more for edge care than most of the food you cut. Food is almost always softer than the board. Each cut ends at the board. That contact is where most of the wear happens.

You do not need a perfect board system, but a few choices help:

• Use a good wood board for most prep. It gives the edge a softer landing and a calmer feel.
• Use thin plastic boards (sometimes on top of wood) when you are working with raw proteins and want dishwasher cleaning.
• Pay attention to boards that feel or sound hard. If every cut lands with a crisp snap, you may be putting more impact into the edge than you mean to.

You can read more about this in How Cutting Boards Affect Sharpness (and Which Ones to Use).

Keep the Edge Aligned Before It Fails

A lot of what people feel as “dull” is actually a rolled or bent edge, not a completely worn away one. When that happens, you have two basic tools:

• Something hard to push the curved or bent part of the blade back toward straight.
• Something abrasive to scratch along the side of the blade at the bevel.

You can think of the abrasive work like a bug trying to get into a tomato. It scratches at the surface, creates a bit of "tooth," and makes it easier for the edge to start the cut. All knives want a little bit of that micro-tooth at the edge to get into food. When well serviced, all knives are “serrated” in a sense. Some serrations you can see, others are very small but do a lot of work.

Light alignment and light abrasive work, done occasionally, stretch out the time between full sharpenings. You do not have to do it every single time you cook. But when you notice the edge beginning to slide or stall more than you like, a small tune-up often brings it back. Consider The Stick by Sharpow for this work if you'd like it to be as easy as making a peanut butter and jelly every so often. 

Working or Put Away and Dry

Knives live their best lives in two states:

• Out working, or
• Put away and dry.

The problems usually show up in the in-between. Knives left in sinks, under pans, on wet towels, or mixed into piles of other utensils have to absorb everything around them. Edges bang into harder objects, moisture sits against steel, and tiny bits of damage accumulate.

A simple pattern that works in most homes:

• Use the knife.
• Rinse or wash it by hand.
• Dry it.
• Put it back where it lives.

It does not have to be complicated. Working, or put away and dry. That's a habit to build. 

Storage That Keeps Edges Out of Trouble

You can optimize knife storage for many things: looks, convenience, counter space, safety, edge care. There is no single correct answer, but there are some patterns that are easier on edges over time.

We have a strong preference for:

• Drawer inserts, where each knife rests in its own channel and air can move around the blades.
• Magnetic strips, where knives hang openly, edges free from knocking into other tools, and handles are easy to grab.

Both of these options keep knives out of the sink, away from loose utensils, and in a place where air can get around them. That reduces the “goo build-up” that can happen in closed blocks and makes it easier to see and reach for the knife you want. And most importantly, keeps the edges from running into other things. 

Clear Food With the Spine, Not the Edge

One of the fastest ways to dull an edge is to scrape the cutting board with it. Sliding the edge sideways across the board to clear chopped food is incredibly common. It is also incredibly hard on the apex.

A simple swap:

• Flip the knife and use the spine to push food off the board, or
• Use your hand or a bench scraper instead.

The motion stays the same. The wear on the edge drops sharply.

Notice Early Signs of Resistance

People often wait until a knife is clearly bad before doing something about it. They adjust grip, add force, and adapt without realizing it is dulling. You can catch the decline earlier by paying attention to a few simple signs.

One easy way is the paper test. Take a piece of paper, hold it lightly, and let the knife pull through it:

• If the blade slides cleanly and you can turn a soft S-curve through the paper, the edge is doing good work. It's sharp.
• If it hangs, tears, or refuses to turn, there is room for improvement.

The paper does not need to be special. You are simply feeling whether the edge wants to travel or whether it has to fight its way through. That same feeling shows up on onions, tomatoes, and everything else on the board.

When Everyday Habits Are Not Enough

Even with good habits, every knife will eventually need a proper reset. Alignment and light abrasive work can delay that moment, but they cannot replace it forever. When resistance stays high even after you tune things up, it is time for sharpening.

You can learn what makes sense to do at home in How to Sharpen a Knife at Home (And When Not to Try). When you are ready for a full reset or repair, you can explore in-person sharpening through Vivront or by-mail options through Sharpow.